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Amigurumi Rise (Artemis II Zero-Gravity Indicator) Free Crochet Pattern

The Artemis II mission is currently traveling around the moon over a ten-day period to test the life-support systems of the Orion spacecraft. The four astronauts brought with them an extremely cute plushie who also had a job as the zero-gravity indicator. According to NASA, “a zero-gravity indicator is a small plush item that flies along with a crew to visually indicate when they are in space.” Basically, when it floats, you know you’re in a zero-gravity environment!

The Moon Mascot Design Challenge received over 2,600 submissions from 50+ countries, and the winning entry, titled “Rise,” was designed by eight-year-old Lucas Ye from Mountain View, California. It was inspired by the iconic Earthrise photo from the Apollo 8 mission. People around the world have (understandably) fallen in love with the super cute plushie, and I am no exception.

I did my best to create a crochet version of the beloved Rise, and I’m sharing the pattern with you for free as a celebration of what I love most about humanity—our sense of curiosity and wonder.

Amigurumi Rise

Skill Level: Basic / Easy / Intermediate / Advanced

Finished Size: About 5” (13 cm) tall, not counting the hanging loop

Materials:

  • Worsted-weight yarn in cream, white, black, green, yellow, medium blue, and navy blue—you’ll need less than 50 yards (46 m) for each color, and only a few feet each of black, white, and yellow
  • G (4.00 mm) crochet hook
  • Stitch marker (if you don’t have a traditional one from the store, try using a yarn scrap, paperclip, or bobby pin)
  • Fiberfill stuffing
  • Optional: I filled mine with rice to make it weighted. If you choose this option, be sure to put the filling inside a nylon stocking or sock so it doesn’t fall out through the stitches.
  • Yarn needle
  • Optional: I chose to attach the eyes with hot glue
  • Pink colored pencil or crayon to add the cheeks

Gauge:

First 3 rounds of Base measure approximately 1.5” (4 cm) in diameter.

Gauge is not important for this project as long as you crochet tightly enough that the fiberfill stuffing does not show through your stitches, although your finished creation might turn out larger or smaller than mine.

Notes:

  • Pattern is worked mainly in unjoined rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round to keep your place.
  • A magic ring (also called an “adjustable ring”) is used to start each piece. Alternatively, you may substitute (ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook) if that’s easier for you.
  • The number in [brackets] at the end of each round indicates how many stitches you should have at the end of that round.
  • If you’re a new crocheter and the colorwork is too difficult, you’re welcome to make the hat body all in blue and cross-stitch the continents in green. You could also experiment with needle-felting the continents.

Crochet Stitches & Abbreviations:

I use US crochet terminology in all my patterns. The following is a list of the abbreviations used in this pattern and, when applicable, their UK equivalent.

  • ch = chain
  • dc = double crochet (UK treble crochet)
  • hk = hook
  • rnd = round
  • RS/WS = Right Side/Wrong Side of work
  • sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
  • sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
  • sk = skip
  • (sl) st = (slip) stitch
  • yo = yarn over

Base:

Make 1 with cream.

Rnd 1 (RS): Make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring. [6 sc]
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. [12 sc]
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. [18 sc]
Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. [24 sc]

Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. [30 sc]
Rnd 6: (Sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. [36 sc]

Rnd 7: (Sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. [42 sc]

Rnd 8: (Sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. [48 sc]

Rnd 9: (Sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. [54 sc]

Rnd 10-21 (11 rnds): Sc in each st around. [54 sc]

Rnd 22: (Sc in next 7 st, sc2tog) 6 times. [48 sc]

Rnd 23: (Sc in next 6 st, sc2tog) 6 times. [42 sc]

Rnd 24: (Sc in next 5 st, sc2tog) 6 times. [36 sc]

Rnd 25: (Sc in next 4 st, sc2tog) 6 times. [30 sc]

Rnd 26: (Sc in next 3 st, sc2tog) 6 times. [24 sc]

Rnd 27: (Sc in next 2 st, sc2tog) 6 times. [18 sc]

Stuff. If you’re using plastic pellets or rice for the filling, add that now. Continue to stuff with fiberfill as you work the last few rounds.

Rnd 28: (Sc in next sc, sc2tog) 6 times. [12 sc]

Rnd 29: Sc2tog around, sl st in next sc. [6 sc]

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Eyes:

Make 2 with black.

With black yarn, make a magic ring, ch 2. Sc in 2nd ch from hk, 3 sc in magic ring, rotate to work across opposite side of chain, 2 sc into next st. Invisible join to first sc.

Use white yarn to make a small stitch to look like a light reflection.

I hot-glued the eyes to the base. You could sew them on instead.

Hat Body

Make 1 with medium blue and green.

Notes:

The hat is made with intarsia colorwork using floats on the backside. Make sure not to pull the floats too tight or the hat will warp, but other than that, it doesn’t matter how the back looks because it won’t be visible in the finished product.

When changing colors, finish the stitch with the new color. For instance, if you’re doing 3 sc in blue and 3 sc in green, you’ll make the first 2 sc with blue as usual, but for the third, do the final yo-pull-through-2-loops with green.

To keep things simple, I’ll use some streamlined abbreviations:

  • 3 blue = with blue, sc in next 3 stitches
  • 1 blue inc = with blue, make 2 sc in next stitch
  • 1 blue-green inc = with blue, sc in next stitch; with green, sc in same stitch
  • 1 green-blue inc = with green, sc in next stitch; with blue, sc in same stitch

Let’s go!

Rnd 1 (RS): With blue, make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring. [6 sc]


Rnd 2: 1 blue inc, 1 green inc, 4 blue inc. [12 sc]


Rnd 3: 1 blue, 1 blue inc, 1 green, 1 green inc, 1 blue, 1 blue inc, (1 green, 1 green inc) 3 times. [18 sc]


Rnd 4: 2 blue, 1 blue-green inc, 2 green, 1 green inc, 2 blue, 1 blue in,. (2 green, 1 green inc) 3 times. [24 sc]


Rnd 5: 3 blue, 1 green inc, 3 green, 1 green inc, 1 green, 2 blue, 1 blue-green inc, (3 green, 1 green inc) 3 times. [30 sc]


Rnd 6: 3 blue, 1 green, 1 green inc, 4 green, 1 green inc, 1 green, 3 blue, 1 blue inc, 4 blue, 1 blue inc, (4 green, 1 green inc) 2 times. [36 sc]

Rnd 7: 3 blue, 2 green, 1 green inc, 5 green, 1 green inc, (5 blue, 1 blue inc) 2 times, (5 green, 1 green inc) 2 times. [42 sc]

Rnd 8: 3 blue, 3 green, 1 green inc, 6 green, 1 blue inc, 6 blue, 1 blue inc, 6 blue, 1 green inc, (6 green, 1 green inc) 2 times. [48 sc]

Rnd 9: 4 blue, 3 green, 1 green inc, 6 green, 1 blue, 1 blue inc, 7 blue, 1 blue-green inc, 5 green, 1 blue, 1 green, 1 green inc, (7 green, 1 green inc) 2 times. [54 sc]

Rnd 10: 6 blue, 8 green, 12 blue, 6 green, 1 blue, 2 green, 2 blue, 16 green, 1 blue. [54 sc]

Rnd 11: 8 blue, 2 green, 16 blue, 8 green, 3 blue, 15 green, 2 blue. [54 sc]

Rnd 12: 9 blue, 2 green, 15 blue, 8 green, 5 blue, 2 green, 3 blue, 4 green, 6 blue. [54 sc]

Rnd 13: 10 blue, 1 green, 15 blue, 9 green, 10 blue, 2 green, 7 blue. [54 sc]

Rnd 14: 10 blue, 1 green, 10 blue, 18 blue through back loops only, 15 blue. [54 sc]

Rnd 15-16 (2 rnds): 10 blue, 1 green, 43 blue. [54 sc]

Fasten off and weave in end.

Hat Brim

Make 1 with dark/navy blue

You have 18 unworked loops from Rnd 14. The brim will be worked into those stitches and the adjacent 18 stitches from Rnd 16.

Rnd 1: With WS facing, join dark blue yarn into the 4th-from-last sc of Rnd 16. Sc in that sc and in the next 17 sc. Rotate to work into unworked front loops from Rnd 14, sc in each of those loops. First round complete. [36 sc]

Rnd 2: Sc in each sc around. [36 sc]

Rnd 3: (Sc2tog, sc in next 14 sts, sc2tog) 2 times. [32 sc]

Rnd 4: Sc in each sc around. [32 sc]

Rnd 5: (Sc2tog, sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog) 2 times. [28 sc]

Rnd 6: Sc in next 27 sts, leave last sc unworked and move the stitch marker to the sc you just completed. This is the new beginning/end of the round. [28 sc]

Rnd 7: (Sc2tog, sc in next 12 sts) 2 times. Sl st to next sc and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Embroider stars onto top of brim. No need to weave in ends, since they will be hidden between the two layers of the brim. When you’re done with the embroidery, use the ending tail from Rnd 7 to whipstitch the front of the brim closed. Weave in ends.

Hanging Loop

With dark blue, ch 17, dc in 3rd ch from hk and in next 14 ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

With WS facing, join white yarn and sl st in each dc across. Repeat on the other side. This creates a line of white running stitches on each side of the hanging loop.

Sew the loop to the top of the hat. You can draw the ends to the inside of the hat and tie them in a knot so you don’t have to weave them in.

Assembly

Sew hat to base, stuffing before you sew it completely shut. Embroider a mouth. Add cheeks with pink colored pencil.

***********

Thank you for choosing my crochet design! I’d love to see your creations. You’re welcome to sell things you make from this pattern, but please do not sell the pattern itself. If you run into difficulties while making this pattern, drop me a line and I’ll be happy to help. Find me online

at claireoliviagolden.com, Instagram @claireoliviagolden, and Ravelry @crochetbyclaire.

Happy crocheting!

(14) Comments

  1. Samsara Duffey says:

    Thank you! As a novice at crochet, your notes and pattern are giving me the courage to give it a go!

  2. Kathy says:

    I’m working on this adorable stuffie but I’m having a problem starting with round 8.
    There are increases in 8 but it has the same number of stitches as round 7? (And, it all seems to go wrong from there.)
    “Rnd 7: 3 blue, 2 green, 1 green inc, 5 green, 1 green inc, (5 blue, 1 blue inc) 2 times, (5 green, 1 green inc) 2 times. [42 sc]

    Rnd 8: 3 blue, 3 green, 1 green inc, 6 green, 1 blue inc, 6 blue, 1 blue inc, 6 blue, 1 green inc, (6 green, 1 green inc) 2 times. [42 sc]”
    I’m attempting to figure it out but I thought I’d check with you, too.

    1. cog98 says:

      Good catch–the stitch counts were off from Rnd 7 onward. I’ve fixed them. The row count should increase by 6 stitches per row, just like the cream base. Thanks for your comment! Happy crocheting!

  3. Ella says:

    On the Base piece, your numbering is wrong, I think. Should that be row 29 instead of 17?
    Stuff. If you’re using plastic pellets or rice for the filling, add that now. Continue to stuff with fiberfill as you work the last few rounds.
    Rnd 28: (Sc in next sc, sc2tog) 6 times. [12 sc]
    Rnd 17: Sc2tog around, sl st in next sc. [6 sc]

    1. cog98 says:

      Yes, you caught a typo–thank you for pointing it out, it should indeed be Rnd 29.

  4. Jamie says:

    Thank you for this free Rise pattern! So cute, I’m working on one now!

    FYI – for the body of the hat, the stitches written in the pattern are short of the [54 sc] indicated for rounds 9, 14, 15, and 16.

    I just decided to wing it on the colors to make it to a total of 54 stitches on those rounds 🙂

    1. cog98 says:

      Thanks so much for your kind words and for pointing out the row count mistakes. It should be fixed now!

  5. Laxmi13 says:

    Hi, I’m getting really close to finishing the body of the hat but I’m confused by the stitch count (54 sc) of 14 and 15/16.

    Counting up Rnd 14 gives me 42 stitches. And, actually, Rnd 15/16 seems to add up to 42 as well. I was going to just sc 12 blues but I figure it doesn’t hurt to ask.

    Thank you!
    ___________

    Rnd 14: 10 blue, 1 green, 10 blue, 18 blue through back loops only, 3 blue. [54 sc]

    Rnd 15-16 (2 rnds): 10 blue, 1 green, 31 blue. [54 sc]

    1. cog98 says:

      It should be fixed now–thank you for pointing that out! 🙂

  6. Thank you for doing this pattern – my friend loves Rise and I was going to try and make my own pattern up but found yours so was saved the trial and error pain! Had a lovely time making them, they are just adorable! Caught a few little things in the hat body section – round 9 seems to be missing a repeat for the green at the end to get up to the right number; round 14 I think the last number should be 15 rather than 3 to add up to 54; and rounds 15-16 I think should end with 43 rather than 31 to get to 54. But it’s an amazing pattern, it was super easy to follow even with all the colour changes – and thanks for the tip on changing yarn colours, I hadn’t worked that one out before 🙂

    1. cog98 says:

      Thank you for your sharp eyes, your edits were extremely helpful! Everything should be fixed now. Round 9 should be…

      Rnd 9: 4 blue, 3 green, 1 green inc, 6 green, 1 blue, 1 blue inc, 7 blue, 1 blue-green inc, 5 green, 1 blue, 1 green, 1 green inc, (7 green, 1 green inc) 2 times. [54 sc]

      …if I’ve got my numbers correct this time. 🙂

  7. Nick Scheuermann says:

    Amazing pattern and working on it now! Found a typo just letting you know! “Rnd 28”, then it says “Rnd 17”. Thank you so much for this!

    1. cog98 says:

      Thanks so much for both your kind words and correction on the typo!

      1. Nick Scheuermann says:

        No problem! Thank you so much for this wonderful pattern! I did see the corrections as well. Thanks again! Can’t wait for Artemis 3!

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